Nick T
I'm 16 and I mountain bike and i enjoy it a lot but I have been wanting to get a road bike for sometime now. I have told my parents and they are thinking about it. They know I'm serious i told them its something I will do all the time and join clubs and stuff, but i still don't have them convinced. I'm good at biking, on my 20 something lb mountain bike i can go 30mph and hold for long time.
Answer
1. If you had a 20# mounain bike, you wouldn't be asking for a new bike.
2. If you could ride said bike @ 30mph for even 10 seconds, you'd best be getting into track cycling so you can sweep nationals.
3. I'm in my 30's, have raced as a Cat 1 roadie and NORBA Expert dirtie, ridden on several sponsored teams, and have had the privelege to receive several handbuilt frames. My parents still don't understand why I don't just drive to work.
At 16, some kids have kick-ass parents who make the investment to get a serious bike under their kid's butt while others have to wrench away at a bike shop all winter to buy a crappy middle-of-the road Schwinn that they use to spank the Colnago and Look-equipped riders. I still love that bike.
If your parents refuse to buy you a bike, ask if they'll match you dollar-for-dollar. Then get a job at a bike shop. Pro deals are usually better than the price the dealer pays and you'll have good connections for gear and maintenance. Otherwise, just suck it up and race on what you can get.
Coaches of Juniors teams know how to spot talent. If you can place in a few races on a crappy bike, they'll notice. Before you know it, an older rider may loan you his/her bike and you'll go even faster. An armful of ribbons later, the sponsor might pony-up for a decent stock bike. Win State and you might find yourself being fitted for a handbuilt frame. Win Nationals and you won't pay for gear for at least a year or two.
Even if you're on a crap bike, join a club. Members always know people who are looking to get rid of an old steed and you can gain valuable knowledge. Racing isn't just about going fast. You need to learn how to ride a pack, take tight turns, communicate with your team, shut-down a breakaway, lead a sprinter out, tuck, climb, descend, and more. These aren't skills you can't get by riding alone on lonely streches of highway, singing Italian opera. Even if you never rise above Cat 4, clubs offer training, advice, and support that you can't get alone. And who knows, maybe a teammate or coach could prove more persuasive than you when it comes to asking the Ps for a new bike or gear?
1. If you had a 20# mounain bike, you wouldn't be asking for a new bike.
2. If you could ride said bike @ 30mph for even 10 seconds, you'd best be getting into track cycling so you can sweep nationals.
3. I'm in my 30's, have raced as a Cat 1 roadie and NORBA Expert dirtie, ridden on several sponsored teams, and have had the privelege to receive several handbuilt frames. My parents still don't understand why I don't just drive to work.
At 16, some kids have kick-ass parents who make the investment to get a serious bike under their kid's butt while others have to wrench away at a bike shop all winter to buy a crappy middle-of-the road Schwinn that they use to spank the Colnago and Look-equipped riders. I still love that bike.
If your parents refuse to buy you a bike, ask if they'll match you dollar-for-dollar. Then get a job at a bike shop. Pro deals are usually better than the price the dealer pays and you'll have good connections for gear and maintenance. Otherwise, just suck it up and race on what you can get.
Coaches of Juniors teams know how to spot talent. If you can place in a few races on a crappy bike, they'll notice. Before you know it, an older rider may loan you his/her bike and you'll go even faster. An armful of ribbons later, the sponsor might pony-up for a decent stock bike. Win State and you might find yourself being fitted for a handbuilt frame. Win Nationals and you won't pay for gear for at least a year or two.
Even if you're on a crap bike, join a club. Members always know people who are looking to get rid of an old steed and you can gain valuable knowledge. Racing isn't just about going fast. You need to learn how to ride a pack, take tight turns, communicate with your team, shut-down a breakaway, lead a sprinter out, tuck, climb, descend, and more. These aren't skills you can't get by riding alone on lonely streches of highway, singing Italian opera. Even if you never rise above Cat 4, clubs offer training, advice, and support that you can't get alone. And who knows, maybe a teammate or coach could prove more persuasive than you when it comes to asking the Ps for a new bike or gear?
BMX bikes (20 inch), how to tell which are for kids or adults?
SF kid
i'm trying to find a good bmx bike, but i've been to the shop where one felt realllly uncomfortable and the other felt good, but they were both 20 inch i think. or is there a different size for adults? i'm not big or anything i weigh like 150.
Answer
I am 31yrs old, and I ride a bmx that's a tad smaller than the ones available in stores. It's still 20inch, but the Top Tube is only 19.5"
When deciding on a bmx, they are all 20", but the length of the Top Tube (the tube between the seat post and the stem/handlebars) makes quite the difference. Some go as high as 22", and some as low as 17.9".
Wall-Mart bikes will feel very cheap and 'toy like', where'as if you go to a bike shop, you will be looking at more mid-high end bikes, with quality parts, built to last and take a beating.
Look for Double-wall rims, as they are a lot stronger and less prone to buckling. You won't be able to tell if they are double, single, or triple wall by looking at them, but some have stickers on them, saying so. Ask for the specs on the bike you are looking at, or take some makes and models of bikes you see in the store, and look up their specs online.
I am 6'0", and my bike is designed for Flatland, so it's light and short. Very few stores will stock Flatland bikes, because we make up only 5% of the bmx world.
Some handle bars have a lot of 'sweep', meaning the grip part of them are angled back or up. This can affect the feel of the bike a lot, but bars can always be changed over.
Tyre pressure, believe it or not, can also make a bike feel different. Most people will roll on 65-80psi.
Best way to go is to ride a few bikes and look at the parts that make it feel different, and see what takes ur preference.
Bar sweep, top tube length, tyre psi, seat height, angle of the bars(forward or back), crank length... all these things vary on all bikes, but all (besides the top tube) can be adjusted to suit your preferences. :)
I am 31yrs old, and I ride a bmx that's a tad smaller than the ones available in stores. It's still 20inch, but the Top Tube is only 19.5"
When deciding on a bmx, they are all 20", but the length of the Top Tube (the tube between the seat post and the stem/handlebars) makes quite the difference. Some go as high as 22", and some as low as 17.9".
Wall-Mart bikes will feel very cheap and 'toy like', where'as if you go to a bike shop, you will be looking at more mid-high end bikes, with quality parts, built to last and take a beating.
Look for Double-wall rims, as they are a lot stronger and less prone to buckling. You won't be able to tell if they are double, single, or triple wall by looking at them, but some have stickers on them, saying so. Ask for the specs on the bike you are looking at, or take some makes and models of bikes you see in the store, and look up their specs online.
I am 6'0", and my bike is designed for Flatland, so it's light and short. Very few stores will stock Flatland bikes, because we make up only 5% of the bmx world.
Some handle bars have a lot of 'sweep', meaning the grip part of them are angled back or up. This can affect the feel of the bike a lot, but bars can always be changed over.
Tyre pressure, believe it or not, can also make a bike feel different. Most people will roll on 65-80psi.
Best way to go is to ride a few bikes and look at the parts that make it feel different, and see what takes ur preference.
Bar sweep, top tube length, tyre psi, seat height, angle of the bars(forward or back), crank length... all these things vary on all bikes, but all (besides the top tube) can be adjusted to suit your preferences. :)
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